A beach with its own identity
The Playa de Ondarreta It is one of those places that define a city without the need for great fanfare. Often overshadowed by its famous neighbor, the La Concha beach, Ondarreta has managed to maintain a solid identity over time, balancing history, natural beauty and a deep connection with the daily life of local life in Donostia. Its name, which comes from the Basque word “hondar”, refers to the sand that characterized this corner before its urban transformation. And before the blue-and-white awnings and the sculptures of Chillida, there was only a wide sandy area, crossed by streams, with a solitary hermitage dominating the landscape.
It was the landing of royalty at the end of the 19th century that completely transformed the destiny of this corner of the Antiguo neighborhood. The regent María Cristina chose San Sebastián as her summer resort and ordered the Miramar Palace to be built right on the promontory that divides Ondarreta from La Concha. That gesture triggered an urban and social metamorphosis: the aristocracy began to build villas facing the sea, garden promenades were laid out and, over time, Ondarreta Beach became a residential beach, elegant, but without losing its local essence.
A past between monarchs, soldiers and football
The history of the Playa de Ondarreta It is dotted with unique anecdotes. In its early years, the sandy area served as a space for military maneuvers. It was not unusual to see formations of soldiers in its surroundings or even King Alfonso XIII in his youth, participating in military events. It was in that same space where the city’s first football field was opened in 1906, the origin of the current Real Sociedad. Years later, in a sort of urban paradox, a prison was built right behind the beach that operated until 1948. Today, only a discreet monolith reminds us of that somewhat dark past that contrasts with the sunny and cheerful image that the beach offers today.
The construction of the Real Club de Tenis de San Sebastián, in 1904, added a distinguished component to the environment. This club, located right on the beach, has historically been a meeting point for San Sebastian society, completing the portrait of a beach that, without looking for it, has ended up witnessing the most significant changes in the city throughout the 20th century.
Photo: DV Real Sociedad and a French team before a match in Ondarreta
Friendly rivalry with La Concha
It is almost inevitable to talk about the Playa de Ondarreta without comparing it with La Concha. If the latter has been the international face of San Sebastián for decades, immortalized on postcards and tourist guides, Ondarreta has played a more discreet role, almost like the city’s best kept secret. But that apparent discretion has been precisely the key to its appeal. Ondarreta represents another rhythm, another way of experiencing the beach: slower, more familiar, less subject to the parade of flashes and selfies.
While La Concha shone with the glamor of luxury spas and the visits of European queens, Ondarreta established itself as the favorite place for many local families and visitors who preferred the more secluded atmosphere of the Antiguo neighborhood. This difference has been maintained over the years, although today Ondarreta Beach is part of the tourist itinerary thanks to the pedestrian connection with La Concha through the Miramart tunnel. This passageway, decorated with marine art, offers direct access that invites the visitor to discover, after a few meters of shade, a beach that surprises with its spaciousness, serenity and beauty.
A beach of generous proportions
One of the most notable physical characteristics of the Playa de Ondarreta It is its breadth. Although its length—about 600 meters—is shorter than that of La Concha, its width, which is around 100 meters, gives it a more spacious character. At high tide, when other beaches in the bay drastically reduce their useful surface area, Ondarreta continues to offer generous sand, making it a particularly appreciated place to spend the day in comfort.
Its fine golden sand is typical of the San Sebastian coast, and the waves are generally moderate, ideal for children, older people and anyone looking for a quiet swim. Being protected by Mount Igeldo and Santa Clara Island, its waters are calm and difficult to find in other areas of the Cantabrian Sea. On clear days, the reflection of the sky on the sea and the panoramic view of the bay make Ondarreta a perfect place for contemplation.
Art as part of the landscape: the Comb of the Wind
You can’t talk about the Playa de Ondarreta not to mention one of its most iconic jewels: the Wind Comb. This work by the Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida is nestled in the rocks at the western end of the beach, where the waves break strongly and the wind whispers through the cavities of the sculpture. It is a sensory experience that is part of the collective imagination of the city. Many come to the place simply to feel how the sea blows through the holes in the ground, expelling jets of air and water in a noisy and fascinating dance.
The integration of art with the natural environment is absolute, and the Comb of the Wind has come to symbolize the Atlantic soul of San Sebastián. From there, the view of Ondarreta Beach is framed between mountains, sky and city, making this corner one of the most photogenic and exciting on the entire Basque coast.
Neighborhood life, tradition and shared generations
But what really distinguishes Ondarreta is its role as a neighborhood beach. El Antiguo, one of the most traditional areas of Donostia, has historically dedicated itself to its beach. From groups of teenagers who meet to spend the afternoon, to grandparents who sunbathe with their grandchildren, the Playa de Ondarreta It functions as an intergenerational space where life happens naturally.
During local festivals or events such as Semana Grande, Ondarreta is an alternative setting to the city center, quieter but equally lively. Everything from San Juan bonfires to children’s competitions are celebrated here, always with the involvement of the neighbors. Even when the San Sebastian weather is not good, it is not unusual to see locals walking warmly along the promenade, enjoying the sea and the family atmosphere that is breathed.
Top services for a historic beach
Despite its classic air, the Playa de Ondarreta It offers a modern and well-kept infrastructure. In the summer season, it has a lifeguard service, signage for bathing areas, showers, changing rooms, public bathrooms, footbaths and daily cleaning. The city of San Sebastián has a high quality standard for the maintenance of its beaches, and this is noticeable in every corner.
The promenade that borders it, flanked by gardens and palm trees, includes a cafeteria with views of the sea where it is common to see neighbors having a coffee, reading the newspaper or simply chatting. During the summer, awnings and hammocks can be rented, and accessibility is guaranteed with wooden ramps and walkways. In addition, the service of amphibious chairs and bathroom assistance for people with reduced mobility is one of the best rated in northern Spain.
Ondarreta, beyond the bathroom: unique experiences
Who visits the Playa de Ondarreta You can simply hang your towel and enjoy the sun, but you also have the opportunity to live unique experiences. From swimming to the floating platform in summer to watching the Semana Grande fireworks from a privileged corner, this beach offers possibilities for all tastes.
The most active can practice sports such as paddle surfing, kayaking or canoeing, taking advantage of the calm of the bay. It is also common to see spontaneous paddle tennis or beach volleyball matches, which bring together locals and visitors in a relaxed atmosphere. For those who prefer to explore, climbing Monte Igeldo on the 1912 funicular is an enchanting experience that culminates with one of the best views of the city.
And for those who value small pleasures, a walk at sunset along Paseo de Ondarreta, watching the sun hide behind the horizon, is an experience that is difficult to forget.
A place with soul and many stories
Every corner of the Playa de Ondarreta It has a history: from the prison with sea views that marked the post-war period in San Sebastian to the “rocal”, those reddish rocks that appeared after storms and that turned out to be remains of ancient rubble. There is also room for cinematic glamour: Ondarreta has served as the setting for films, advertisements and reports, and there have been no shortage of celebrities who have chosen this beach for its discretion.
But, beyond the anecdotal, what defines Ondarreta is his ability to connect past and present. It is a beach that has managed to age gracefully, without losing its essence. And it is precisely that balance between history, nature, art and everyday life that makes it one of the least known—but most loved—jewels of San Sebastián.
Conclusion: Ondarreta, the beach that is lived
In a city like San Sebastian, where each corner has its own personality, the Playa de Ondarreta stands out for its balance. It does not seek to be the most famous, nor the most photographed. Its value lies in its authenticity, in the way it integrates with the life of the neighborhood, in how it welcomes both curious tourists and lifelong San Sebastian residents.
Ondarreta is sea, it is art, it is history, it is memory. It is a place where every grain of sand has something to tell. And when you step on it for the first time, you understand that this beach is not only visited: it is shared, remembered and, above all, lived.
