(Caldereros) The Tinkers in San Sebastián: Tradition and Culture

The Coppersmiths’ Festival (Los Caldereros) in San Sebastián is one of the city’s most iconic celebrations, serving as the traditional prelude to Carnival. It pays homage to the nomadic artisans who once traveled across Europe repairing metal utensils. This annual event is more than just a tradition; it is a vibrant expression of culture and community, bringing together people of all ages and backgrounds in a rhythmic display of heritage.

Origins of the Coppersmiths

The coppersmiths were nomadic craftsmen, often of Romani origin, who moved from town to town offering their skills in repairing cauldrons and other metal cookware. In an era when metal objects were essential yet difficult to replace, their arrival was eagerly anticipated. The distinct sound of hammers striking metal not only announced their presence but also heralded a period of joy and renewal. In many regions, their arrival signaled the start of Carnival celebrations, symbolizing transformation and hope.

The Caldereros in San Sebastián

In San Sebastián, this tradition dates back to February 2, 1884, when the local social clubs “La Unión Artesana” and “La Fraternal” organized the first “Hungarian Coppersmiths’ Troupe” (Comparsa de Caldereros de la Hungría). This inaugural parade, held on the feast of Candlemas (La Candelaria), featured music composed by Raimundo Sarriegui with lyrics by Adolfo Comba. In 1886, the famous song “Begi urdin bat” by Victoriano Iraola was added to the repertoire.

Over the years, the celebration has seen periods of both splendor and decline. During the 1950s, thanks to the efforts of the Gaztelupe and Gaztelubide societies, the festival was revitalized and began to be celebrated regularly. Between 1959 and 1968, the figure of the Queen was consolidated, new troupes appeared in the Antiguo neighborhood, and the first Saturday of February was established as the official date. This period also marked the beginning of greater community involvement, with a renewed focus on the cultural and festive aspects of the event.

The last major resurgence of the Coppersmiths in San Sebastián took place in 1972, led by the Center for Attraction and Tourism in collaboration with citizens and social clubs. This joint effort ensured not only the continuity of the celebration but also its adaptation to modern times. Since the 1980s, the inclusion of women has transformed the festival, promoting equality across all roles within the troupes. Today, men and women participate with equal enthusiasm, reflecting society’s evolution toward more inclusive values.

Modern-Day Celebration

Today, the Coppersmiths’ Festival in San Sebastián is celebrated on the first Saturday of February or the Saturday following Candlemas. The troupes (comparsas) march through the city streets, raising a clamor of frying pans and hammers while singing traditional melodies. Participants wear colorful attire, evoking the dress of Hungarian coppersmiths, and carry metal utensils that they strike in time with the songs.

The Traditional Hungarian Coppersmiths’ Troupe begins its parade in the Old Town (Parte Vieja), setting up camp in the Plaza de la Constitución. There, the Queen of the Troupe and her Ladies greet the Donostiarra public, and participants perform songs such as “Begi urdin bat” and the “Mazurca,” accompanied by the Municipal School of Music and Dance band. This moment is particularly anticipated by the public, who gather to enjoy a spectacle filled with music and tradition.

The troupe includes various characters: the Queen, the Ladies, the Directors, the Bear, and his Tamer, among others. In total, over 400 people organized into 19 tribes participate in the parade, accompanied by the txaranga Gauerdi. Furthermore, other troupes hold parades in different neighborhoods across the city, expanding the reach of the festivities and allowing more people to join the celebration. These parades also offer an opportunity for local communities to showcase their creativity and dedication to this century-old tradition.

Beyond its cultural dimension, the Coppersmiths’ Festival also has a positive economic impact on the city, attracting tourists and generating commercial activities related to the event. This celebration is undoubtedly a reflection of San Sebastián’s rich cultural heritage and its ability to preserve and reinvent its traditions.

The Songs of the Caldereros

The melodies and lyrics are a fundamental pillar of the festival. These compositions do more than just beautify the celebration; they transmit the history and character of this unique tradition. The songs reflect the creativity and community spirit that define the event. Each melody holds a special meaning, evoking emotions and memories for both participants and spectators.

Over time, the lyrics have evolved slightly while maintaining their essence, allowing new generations to connect with San Sebastián’s cultural roots. The songs are also known for their catchy rhythms and unique style, making them unforgettable for those who hear them.

Below are the songs performed during the celebration:

Cultural Importance

The Coppersmiths’ Festival in San Sebastián not only preserves a century-old tradition but also highlights the community’s ability to revitalize and adapt its celebrations. It is a testament to the festive and cultural spirit that characterizes the city, consolidating it as a benchmark in the preservation of customs. This unique event brings together people of all ages and origins, who actively participate in the troupes, parades, and musical performances, contributing to the enrichment of the tradition.

The involvement of various local associations, together with institutional support, has allowed this festival to thrive over time, ensuring that new generations know and value its legacy. Furthermore, the Coppersmiths’ Festival is not only a cultural symbol but also a motor for social cohesion, promoting teamwork and a sense of belonging among its participants.

For more information, visit the official Donostia Kultura website.

Author: Descubre Donostia