Introduction: when history mixes with the Cantabrian breeze
In the heart of San Sebastián, right where the city overlooks the La Concha bay and embraces the Cantabrian Sea, rises a mountain that has been much more than a beautiful background for postcards. We talk about Mount Urgull, one of the most unique jewels of Donostia.
But Urgull is not just a beautiful park with spectacular views. It is a place where history It beats in every stone, where every canyon has a story to tell and where the paths wind between centuries-old walls, fortresses, buried secrets and anecdotes that deserve to be told.
This mountain has been a military stronghold, the scene of wars, an improvised cemetery, a refuge for legends, and today it is one of the most visited natural and cultural spaces in the city. If you are in Donostia, You can’t say you know the city until you’ve been to Urgull. And if you already did… you probably didn’t see it all.
In this guide we tell you the complete history of Mount Urgull, from its medieval origins to its current role as a green lung and natural viewpoint. We show you its paths, its forgotten batteries, its hidden museums and, of course, the secrets that almost no one knows. Get ready for a different, richer, deeper and more San Sebastian visit.
The history of Mount Urgull: eight centuries of defense, sieges and rebirth
If there is a place in San Sebastián that summarizes the city’s war history, that is the Mount Urgull. Long before becoming a public park, it was a strategic fortress, the true defensive heart of Donostia since its foundation in the 12th century.
The origins: from Navarrese tower to Castilian bastion
Around the year 1150, when Donostia was not yet officially a town, there was already a watchtower at the top of the mountain. But it was in 1194 when the Navarrese king Sancho the Strong He built a more solid castle, knowing that the place was perfect to control both the sea and the emerging population at its feet.
Shortly after, in 1200, the city passed into the hands of the Kingdom of Castile. And with her, Urgull became an essential piece in the border defense of the northern peninsula. Since then, the mountain would continue to be a direct witness to all the political and military tensions in the area.
The 16th century and the first major reinforcements
As time went by, the threats grew: pirate attacks, French raids, religious tensions… After a failed attempt at a Franco-Navarre invasion in 1512, the emperor Carlos V reinforced the defenses. The castle was armed with cannons brought from Flanders and the garrison was expanded. New bastions were also built and the perimeter that connected to the walled city was reinforced.
The mountain began to resemble the military complex that we can still see today: a tiered defense system, with walls, towers, artillery bastions and a castle at the top, known as the Mota Castle.
Explosions, lightning and foreign occupations
In 1688, lightning struck the castle’s powder magazine and caused a devastating explosion which destroyed part of the fortress and several houses in the city. The shock (and destruction) was such that new works were undertaken to rebuild and improve the entire defensive system.
In 1719, during the War of the Quadruple Alliance, the troops of the Duke of Berwick, in the service of France, they besieged and occupied San Sebastián for months. Although the castle resisted fiercely, the city fell. The French returned the square shortly after, but the message was clear: the mountain had to continue being reinforced.
The fire of 1813 and the fall of the city
The most tragic episode in the history of Urgull (and the entire city) came in August 1813. In the middle of the War of Independence against Napoleon, Anglo-Portuguese troops besieged San Sebastián, occupied by the French. After two months of siege, they managed to open a breach in the wall.
French soldiers They took refuge in Urgull, defending the castle until the capitulation. Meanwhile, the allies devastated the city. The result was devastating: fires, looting, destruction. Only one street survived: the current one August 31st Street, named after that fateful day.
This event forever marked the memory of Donostia and consolidated the role of Mount Urgull as the last bastion of defense and, at the same time, as symbol of resistance and tragedy.
19th century: Carlist wars, telegraph and English cemetery
In the 19th century, the Carlist Wars They once again turned Urgull into the scene of sieges and bombings. The city, with a liberal tradition, was attacked several times by Carlist troops, and the mountain was reinforced again. During this time, early warning systems were installed, such as a bell tower that rang when enemy shots were detected, allowing the population to take refuge before the arrival of the shells.
In this same period, Urgull hosted the first optical telegraph of the area (a kind of WhatsApp based on rotating blades), and also the famous English Cemetery, where British soldiers of the Auxiliary Legion who fought for the liberal side were buried.
This cemetery is still there, among trees and with its stone crosses covered in moss, like a silent corner that reminds us that Donostia was, for many years, a city on a war footing.
From military fortress to citizen park
With the arrival of definitive peace, Urgull began to lose its strategic function. In 1863 the walls that linked the mountain to the city were demolished to allow urban growth.
At the end of the 19th century, with the Cuban War on the horizon, some long-range batteries were still installed to deter possible enemies… but it was already a symbolic gesture. The mountain no longer made sense as a fortress.
In 1921, the City Council bought Urgull from the State, marking the beginning of its transformation. Although there were attempts to demolish military structures, a fatal accident in 1924 (while trying to blow up an underground barracks) paralyzed everything. Luckily: thanks to that, many historic fortifications were preserved that today we can travel.
Since the 1960s, restoration tasks were promoted, and in 1984, the Castillo de la Mota and its fortifications were declared National Historical-Artistic Monument. Today, Urgull is a public park, an open-air museum and a space of historical memory, perfectly integrated into city life.
Heritage elements of Mount Urgull: canyons, castles, sculptures and other hidden gems
He Mount Urgull It is not just history: it is a museum without walls where every corner tells something. And the best of all is that You can explore it for free, at your own pace, and without anyone telling you “no touching”. From centuries-old fortresses to monuments visible from the open sea, each heritage element has its place and its anecdote.
Here we present the essentials of the mountain, those that you should not get lost under any circumstances if you want to proudly say that you have explored Urgull as it deserves.
🏰 Castillo de la Mota: the heart of the San Sebastian defense
Crowning the summit of Urgull, the Mota Castle It is the oldest and most symbolic structure on the mountain. Although its origins date back to the 12th century, what we see today is a fortress reinforced and expanded between the 17th and 19th centuries. With an irregular floor plan, imposing walls and loopholes in all directions, it was the last resistance in the assault of 1813.
Inside is the Urgull History House, a museum that tells the evolution of San Sebastián with a very careful exhibition. There are models of the walled city, historical photographs, military pieces, uniforms, plans and audiovisuals. One of the videos crudely shows the fire of 1813: it’s not exactly Disney, but it is very illuminating.
Admission is free and it is usually open in the morning and afternoon during high season. And if you don’t catch the museum open, no problem: the building itself and its parade ground are already worth a visit.
✝️ Sacred Heart of Jesus: the eternal watchman
Above the upper tower of the castle stands the most recognizable sculpture of Urgull: the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the work of the sculptor Federico Coullaut-Valera and inaugurated in 1950. It measures more than 12 meters and stands on a 16-meter pedestal, reaching almost 30 meters in height.
With open arms towards the city, this figure has become an icon visible from much of Donostia and from the open sea. At its base there is a small chapel and a viewpoint that offers a 360° panoramic view: to the west the bay and Monte Igueldo, to the east the Monte Ulía and the mouth of the Urumea, to the south the roofs of the Old Town and to the north the purest Cantabrian Sea.
It is, without a doubt, one of the best viewpoints in San Sebastián.
💣 Batteries and cannons: relics that point to the sea
Spread across the different slopes of the mountain, the artillery batteries They were the platforms from which the city was defended with cannons. Today, some preserve original pieces mounted on their gun carriages, aligned and still pointing to the horizon as if waiting for the return of a pirate galleon.
Some of the most notable:
- Ladies Battery: located on the northwest slope, with canyons overlooking Paseo Nuevo. Its name comes from the “encounters” that took place between the San Sebastian women who went up to look for water from a fountain and the soldiers stationed in the bastion.
- Santiago or Queen’s Battery: oriented to the northeast, it protected the access by the river.
- Santa Clara High Battery: the highest of the coastal areas, with privileged views towards the island.
But the hidden gem is a piece that doesn’t shoot, but rather talks…
💬 “Rosita Waiker”: the talking bomb
In front of the entrance to the House of History, you will find a bronze bombard cast in 1502 in Oldenburg County. It is a unique piece, not only because of its age but because of what is engraved on it:
“My name is Rosita Waiker, I sow death and moaning; Juan Vasiénove made me, this is true, year 1502”
Yes, this cannon has a name and a message. It was rescued from a shipwreck and taken to the mountain, where it now “rests” as part of the open-air museum. How many cannons have you known that present themselves? An Urgull classic.
⚰️ English Cemetery: silence, history and some mystery
On the northern slope, almost hidden between trees and little traveled paths, you will find the English Cemetery. It was created to bury British soldiers who died during the Carlist Wars in the 19th century, when they fought on the liberal side.
Today it is a melancholic place, with moss-covered tombstones and a large stone cross in the center. Local legends speak of forbidden loves, souls in pain and the occasional shadow that can be seen on full moon nights (although we believe that this is more for guided night tours).
Be that as it may, it is an ideal place for those who enjoy the darker and more romantic side of history.
🕳️ Barracks, powder magazines and hidden remains
Walking through Urgull you will see much more than castles and cannons. The mountain is full of secondary structures that were once vital: magazines, shooting galleries, casemates, underground barracks…
One of them, the Bombproof barracks, was the protagonist of a tragedy in 1924 when an attempt was made to demolish it with dynamite and caused the death of the captain in charge. Today you can still see the scars of the explosion on its walls.
There are also ruins of an optical telegraph tower, part of the 19th century communications network that connected Madrid with Irún. Urgull had its WhatsApp before it was cool!
📚 Damas and Natur Txoko Library: outdoor culture
In addition to the historical elements, the City Council has taken advantage of the old batteries to install cultural points:
- In the Ladies Battery there is a small summer library, ideal for reading outdoors.
- In the Governor’s Battery is found Nature Corner, an environmental education center where activities are organized for children and families.
These initiatives not only give life to the mountain, but turn it into an educational, natural and cultural space, perfect for family visits.
🧭 Nooks, viewpoints and sentry boxes: the adventure is in the details
Beyond the great monuments, Urgull is full of small details: stairs that go up to guard posts, platforms half hidden in the undergrowth, half-forgotten stretches of wall that invite you to stop. Some are signposted; others you discover by chance. And that makes it even more special.
The viewpoints They are another strong point: some are at the top, next to the castle; others look out onto Paseo Nuevo or the bay from the bastions. Each one offers a different view of San Sebastian, from unusual angles.
Wherever you go up, in Urgull you will always find some corner that seems designed just for you.
Trails and routes through Mount Urgull: how to get there, where to go up and what to see on each path
One of the great virtues of Mount Urgull is that, despite its history as a military fortress, today it has become a place Friendly, accessible and very enjoyable. You can go up from different points of the city, along well-maintained and marked trails, which allow you to adapt the visit to the time and desire to walk.
Here we explain the main access routes to the mountain, what you will find in each one, and some tips so you don’t miss the best corners.
Route 1: From Plaza Zuloaga (San Telmo Museum)
📍 Starting point: Plaza Zuloaga, next to the San Telmo Museum
🕒 Estimated duration: 25-30 minutes to the top
🧭 Level: Easy
This is the route most popular and comfortable to climb Mount Urgull. The path is paved, has gentle slope and makes zigzag curves until reaching the top. It is ideal for families, older people and those who do not want to complicate things.
Along the way there are benches, shaded areas, and information panels that explain the history of the mountain. Additionally, it offers several panoramic views over the Old Town and the mouth of the Urumea.
📸 Highlights on the route:
- South wall of the mountain
- Views towards the Kursaal and the Gros neighborhood
- Detour to the Castillo de la Mota and the Sacred Heart
Route 2: From Mari / Puerto street
📍 Starting point: Corner of the Naval Museum (Mari and Virgen del Coro streets)
🕒 Estimated duration: 20-25 minutes
🧭 Level: Half
This trail goes up the southwest slope, more natural and less traveled. Pass by historical remains, walls and wooded areas. It is a route with more charm for those who want to feel a little explorer.
It is usually the favorite of photographers, because it allows you to capture the contrast between the fishing port, the city and the open sea.
📸 Highlights:
- Remains of 19th century fortifications
- English Cemetery (access from a side path)
- Connection with the Ladies’ Battery
Route 3: From the Basilica of Santa María
📍 Starting point: Rear part of the Basilica of Santa María del Coro
🕒 Estimated duration: 20-30 minutes
🧭 Level: Medium – with cobbled sections and more inclination
This route has a touch most historic and picturesque, since it starts from the heart of the Old Town and ascends between old walls and stone stairs. It is more demanding than the previous one, but also more authentic.
If you like to feel like you are walking through the past, this is your route. It is also ideal to start here, go up to the castle and then go down the other way, making a circular route.
📸 Highlights:
- Original flights of military stairs
- Side access to towers and viewpoints
- Views towards the port and Monte Igueldo
Route 4: From Paseo Nuevo
📍 Starting point: Access from Paseo Nuevo, next to the sculpture “Empty Construction” by Jorge Oteiza
🕒 Estimated duration: 25-35 minutes
🧭 Level: Medium-high – more natural, without pavement
It is the most wild and less crowded. It begins next to the sea, bordering the cliffs along the Paseo Nuevo, and enters a dirt and stone path that winds towards the northern batteries. Ideal for those who want something different or enjoy the mountains in their most natural aspect.
Of course, if it has rained recently, this path can be somewhat slippery.
📸 Highlights:
- Ladies Battery
- English Cemetery
- Spectacular views of the Cantabrian Sea
And what is at the top of Mount Urgull?
All roads lead to Mota Castle and to Sacred heart, the highest point of Mt. From here, you have access to:
- The House of History
- Terraces with 360° views
- Routes to other batteries (Gobernador, Santa Clara, Santiago…)
- Resting points with benches and shade
- Information panels on the mountain’s heritage
Wherever you go up, the top always compensates the effort. And if you can time it to arrive at sunset, the spectacle is guaranteed.
Is Mount Urgull accessible to everyone?
Good question. Although Urgull is not a high mountain (123 meters), It has sections with slopes, stairs and dirt roads. Therefore, although it is much more accessible than other mountain routes, it is not fully adapted for people with reduced mobility.
The route from San Telmo It is the softest and most paved, and can be done with a baby stroller or manual wheelchair up to the middle of the slope. To get to the castle, however, you have to overcome slopes and some steps.
💡 Advice: If you are traveling with small children, this route (San Telmo) is the most suitable. You can even do it partially, reach some battery and enjoy without climbing to the top.
Are there opening hours?
Yes. Although it is a public mountain, access is controlled with gates to avoid vandalism or nighttime accidents.
🕓 Opening hours:
- From May 1 to September 30: from 08:00 to 21:00
- From October 1 to April 30: from 08:00 to 19:30
It is recommended do not rush the closing, since some trails do not have lighting and the descent can be somewhat uncomfortable at night.
Is it safe to climb Mount Urgull?
Completely. It is one of the safest places in San Sebastián. During the day there is presence of the Municipal Guard, especially in high season. Furthermore, as there is no traffic, it is a perfect place to walk with children, play sports or simply disconnect.
Of course, as in any natural environment, it is advisable:
- Wear appropriate footwear
- Avoid leaving the marked paths
- Do not go down muddy trails if it has rained
- Bring water, especially on hot days
Mount Urgull today: a tourist, natural and cultural treasure in the heart of San Sebastián
He Mount Urgull has left behind its past of walls, cannons and sieges, but not its ability to surprise. Today it is one of the most special places – and we would say essential – for everyone who visits San Sebastián. Its value goes far beyond being a simple viewpoint: Urgull is history, nature, culture, leisure and education in a single space.
Living heritage, open and free
Unlike other monuments that charge entry or require prior reservation, access to Mount Urgull is completely free. This makes the mountain an ideal plan for all audiences: from the low-cost traveler to families with children, groups of friends or visitors looking for uncomplicated outdoor activities.
In addition, the experience can be adapted: you can climb only as far as the first batteries, take a cultural tour of the castle, or enjoy a circular walk along the paths of the northern slope. It is a space without economic barriers or tourist filters.
And this, although it may seem obvious, is very important from the point of view of the sustainable tourism: Urgull is not just another destination on the map, but a model of how to preserve heritage without turning it into a theme park.
A magnet for cultural tourism
Every year, tens of thousands of people They go up to Urgull. Some do it for the views; others, for the museum; others, simply because it has been recommended to them. In the summer months, the influx can be very high, but the mountain never feels overwhelmed: its routes are well distributed and there is space for everyone.
He House of History Museum, inaugurated inside the castle in 2011, has been a success: in its first summers it exceeded 60,000 visitors, and today it remains one of the most valued exhibitions in Donostia. For many, it represents a gateway to the history of the city which then continues with the Old Town, the San Telmo Museum or the Polloe Cemetery.
In addition, many guided routes—especially nocturnal or themed around legends—include Urgull as a key point. Local companies organize walks through their bastions telling stories of ghosts, explosions, war loves and Napoleonic conspiracies. The mountain gives a lot.
A green lung in the center of the city
It doesn’t look like it when you see it from the Boulevard, but Urgull is also one of the main natural areas of San Sebastián. And not only for its vegetation, but for the ecosystem it houses:
- Native and exotic plant species (some in danger of extinction).
- Curious fauna such as the Iberian lizard, salamanders with their own pigmentation or endemic beetles such as the Iberodorcadion urgulli.
- Birds that nest in the cracks of the bastions and in the gaps in the walls.
- Rocks, cliffs and forests that, although they are next to the Old Town, look like something out of an adventure movie.
This balance between the urban and the natural makes it a perfect space for walking, playing sports or simply disconnecting from the noise without leaving the center of Donostia.
Activities and services that keep you alive
Although it is not a conventional park, Urgull has its own cultural life. The City Council, through Donostia Culture and other entities, organizes activities every summer for different audiences:
- 🧒 Workshops for children at Natur Txoko (environmental education).
- 📖 outdoor library in the Ladies’ Battery, with a reading area and activities for families.
- 🎭 Storytelling, dramatized visits or concerts occasional.
- 📚 Temporary exhibitions or themed events in the castle
All this shows that Urgull is not a place frozen in the past, but a space dynamic, which is reinvented every season to remain useful and attractive.
What do those who visit it think?
If one reviews portals like TripAdvisor the Google Maps, the opinions of Mount Urgull are overwhelmingly positive. Visitors highlight:
- The impressive panoramic from the castle.
- The contrast between nature and military structures.
- The “authentic” thing about the place: no lines, no crowds, no filters.
- The cultural and educational value of the tour.
There are also those who describe it as “the best free activity in Donostia” or as “the most magical corner of the city.” Exaggerated? Maybe. Justified? Completely.
A sensory, emotional and very San Sebastian experience
Touring Urgull is not just an excursion, it is a complete experience. It smells like moss and saltpeter. It sounds like birds, wind through trees and the sound of waves breaking on Paseo Nuevo. It makes you look back (history), up (landscape), and inward (connection with the place).
And it also has that character that defines San Sebastián: elegant but unpretentious, beautiful but functional, loaded with memory but always open to the journey of the present.
Urgull is not made for you to run. It is made so that you look, breathe, sit, remember… and wonder how the hell a place like this can exist in the heart of the city.
Tips for visiting Mount Urgull like a true Donostiarra
If you’ve made it this far (in the text or on the walk), you deserve a break. And if you haven’t visited it yet, here you go Some helpful tips to get the most out of your experience on Mount Urgull:
🥾Comfortable footwear
It seems obvious, but it doesn’t hurt to say it: avoid flip flops and city shoes. Although there are easy routes, some areas have stairs, stone or dirt paths, and steep slopes. Your feet will thank you.
💧 Water and some snacks
There are no public fountains on the mountain, so carry a bottle of water (especially in summer) and, if you feel like it, something light to snack on at the viewpoints. There is no better place for a mini picnic than a battery with sea views.
🕶️ Best in clear weather
Urgull can be enjoyed in any weather, but a sunny or slightly cloudy day It allows you to enjoy the views in all their splendor. Of course, if it has rained recently, some areas may be slippery.
🌄 The sunset, the magical moment
Many San Sebastian residents go up to Urgull at dusk. The golden light colors the roofs of the Old Town, the sea turns silver, and the sun hides behind Monte Igueldo while the cannons seem to point to a peaceful horizon. It is a free and unique show.
📸 Be careful with the photos… you can fill your phone’s memory!
Urgull is not one to go in a hurry. Walk without an agenda, sit on the benches with a view, listen to the silence. And if you take photos (which you will), Also do one without a cell phone: only with the retina. That one is not deleted.
Closing: Urgull, the mountain that sums up San Sebastián
San Sebastián has many charms: beaches, gastronomy, architecture, festivals… But there is one place that sums it all up without intending to: Mount Urgull. In it you will find history, beauty, mystery, nature, identity and many reasons to return.
It’s not just a mountain. It is a living chapter of the city.
It’s not just a viewpoint. It’s a lesson in perspective.
And it’s not just a castle. It is a symbol of resistance, memory and peace.
Going up to Urgull is looking at Donostia from where it all began.
And lowering it… is doing it with a slightly fuller heart.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
