History of Holy Week in San Sebastián: from the old processions to the current recollection

Holy Week is one of the most important periods of the Christian calendar, and although San Sebastián does not live with the grandeur of other cities, its history is full of meaning, art, religiosity and evolution. In this article we dive into the history of Holy Week in San Sebastián, from its first religious manifestations to how its celebration has changed today.

Origin and first references: a centuries-old tradition

The history of Holy Week in San Sebastián It begins to be documented in the 17th and 18th centuries, although it is likely that some forms of commemoration already existed before. The first clear references appear associated with the creation of brotherhoods and the elaboration of processional steps, which indicates that the city already lived the holy days intensely.

One of the most important names linked to these early times is that of the San Sebastian sculptor Felipe de Arizmendi (1669-1725). Between 1710 and 1713, this artist carved several religious images that were used in the processions of Thursday and Good Friday. Some of his most notable works were “Jesus in the Garden Prayer”, “The Flagellation” or “The Stripping of the Vestments at Calvary”.

These sculptures were not simply decorations, but deeply symbolic representations of the Passion of Christ who led the religious parades through the streets of the historic center. With them, a tradition was consolidated that during subsequent centuries would become part of the cultural and spiritual heritage of Donostia.

The rise of processions in the 19th and 20th centuries

During the 19th century and much of the 20th century, the ancient processions of San Sebastian They reached their maximum splendor. The city, still marked by a strong Catholic religiosity, celebrated Holy Week with great solemnity. The main brotherhoods organized processions that walked through the streets with imposing steps, accompanied by music bands, civil authorities and numerous faithful.

At this time, two large processions stood out:

• The procession of Good Shepherd (Holy Thursday), which left from the cathedral and had the participation of brothers, parishioners and part of the diocesan clergy.
• The procession of Saint Vincent (Good Friday), which started from the Gothic church of San Vicente, in the heart of the Old Town.

In both paraded highly valued images, such as that of the crucified Christ, the Virgin of Sorrows or the Nazarene. These images, many of them of great artistic value, were carried on litters by brothers dressed in tunics and hoods.

During these days, the city practically came to a standstill. Cinemas, theaters and bars were closed. The women attended the services dressed in strict mourning and mantilla, while the men accompanied the processions with candles. The streets were taken over by a solemn silence, broken only by the drums and bugles that marked the passage of the penitents.

Brotherhoods and popular fervor

The ancient brotherhoods of Donostia They played a fundamental role in the development of the Holy Week celebrations. These religious groups, made up of lay people, organized the liturgical events, took care of the images, coordinated the parades and promoted devotion among the neighbors.

One of the best known was the Brotherhood of Our Father Jesus Nazarene, which existed for decades and had a large presence during Good Friday. Through these brotherhoods, many families actively participated in the religious life of the city, transmitting the faith from generation to generation.

In addition to the religious component, the brotherhoods also fostered a feeling of collective identity, especially in the neighborhoods. Preparing the procession, taking care of the costumes or rehearsing the songs were part of social life during Lent.

Social changes and decline of large celebrations

The evolution of Holy Week in Donostia It also reflects the profound social changes that the city has experienced. Starting in the 1960s, Basque society began to experience a cultural transformation that also affected the way of living religion.

In 1970, the bishop of the diocese of San Sebastián, Jacinto Argaya, decided suppress processions of Holy Week in the capital of Gipuzkoa. The decision was made for several reasons:

• The lack of participation active in processions, especially among young people.
• The progressive secularization of San Sebastian society, with a general distancing from traditional religious practices.
• The desire of renew the spiritual experience moving it away from the most ostentatious forms and focusing it on a more interior spirituality.

This suppression marked a before and after in the history of Holy Week in San Sebastián. Many of the processional images stopped taking to the streets and were stored or transferred to other locations where processions continued to be held.

Some sculptures became part of permanent exhibitions or were integrated as devotional pieces on the altars of churches such as Saint Mary of the Choir the Saint Vincent. Others were even sent to museums or lent to towns with processional traditions.

Acts that disappeared or were transformed

Over the years, numerous religious acts missing in San Sebastián They left their mark on the collective memory. The Holy Thursday and Good Friday processions stopped taking place. Celebrations such as the procession of the Corpus Christi or the parade Baby Jesus of Prague, which once brought together hundreds of faithful and had the participation of the military and religious schools.

Despite these disappearances, some acts were transforming to adapt to new times. One of the best examples is that of Via Crucis of the Monte Urgull, which since 1960 replaced the traditional urban Via Crucis. This pilgrimage at dawn, in silence and with a large wooden cross, has remained a deeply spiritual act and respectful of the city’s natural environment.

Also in the neighborhood of Old Amara an alternative tradition was created: the Living Passion, an open-air theatrical performance of scenes from the Passion of Christ, starring neighborhood residents. This event, which began in the 1960s, continues to take place every year on Good Friday night and is one of the most endearing events of San Sebastian’s Holy Week today.

Holy Week in San Sebastián today: between spirituality and reflection

Currently, Holy Week in San Sebastián is experienced very differently from how it was celebrated in the past. There are no longer massive processions or parades with bands and brothers, but the religious essence is still present.

The San Sebastian churches, especially the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, Saint Mary of the Choir and Saint Vincent, maintain a calendar of liturgical celebrations throughout Holy Week:

• Palm Sunday: blessing of bouquets in squares and atriums, with great family participation.
• Maundy Thursday: Mass of the Lord’s Supper and adoration of the Blessed Sacrament in the monuments.
• Good Friday: Via Crucis on Mount Urgull at dawn and the sermon of the Seven Words in the Basilica of Santa María.
• Holy Saturday: Easter Vigil, with the blessing of the fire and the lighting of the Easter candle.
• Easter Sunday: festive masses with music and special decoration in the temples.

These acts, although more intimate, preserve the deep meaning of Holy Week: reflection on the death and resurrection of Christ, reflection and spiritual renewal.

Furthermore, the Living Passion by Amara Zaharra and the Via Crucis del Urgull are the only public events that connect with ancient street traditions. Both events stand out for their sober, respectful and community nature.

From popular fervor to private experience

The religious history of San Sebastian It is the story of a city that has known how to adapt its spirituality to the times. If in the past religion was visible, communal and omnipresent, today faith is lived on a more personal and reserved level.

Many San Sebastian residents continue to participate in liturgical services, but they do so from a more intimate place. The Catholic religion has lost presence in the public space, but it is still present in the hearts of those who seek a connection with their faith, their history and their roots.

This change is not exclusive to Donostia, but responds to a global cultural evolution, especially in Europe. Secularization, religious pluralism and generational changes have profoundly transformed forms of religiosity.

Holy Week before and now in Donostia: a revealing comparison

Comparing what Holy Week was like in San Sebastián 70 years ago and what it is like today allows us to better understand the evolution of the city and its social fabric. Some key differences:

The Holy Week before and now in Donostia It is the reflection of how a city transforms. What was previously experienced as a great popular religious manifestation is now celebrated from a more reflective perspective, adapted to the context of a modern and plural society.

Artistic heritage and spiritual legacy

Although many of the processions disappeared, the artistic legacy of Holy Week It is still present in several San Sebastian temples. Some of the ancient carvings that were part of the steps are preserved in side chapels or main altars:

• He Behold the Man carved by Felipe de Arizmendi is still venerated in San Vicente.
• He Great Step of Descent, of baroque style, remains in Santa María del Coro.
• Other images of the Nazarene or the Sorrowful have been restored and continue to be objects of devotion.

These works not only have religious value, but also artistic and historical value. They represent centuries of faith and art in the city, and are silent witnesses of a Holy Week that was once great and today survives with discretion.

Conclusion: the living memory of an evolving tradition

The history of Holy Week in San Sebastián It is the story of a city that has come a long way, from the popular and public religiosity of the past to a more personal and silent spirituality.

Although there are no longer processions or brotherhoods parading through the Old Town, Holy Week is still alive in the churches, on the steps of Amara Zaharra, in the first lights of Mount Urgull, and in the hearts of the people of San Sebastián who approach the temples every year looking for meaning and meditation.

In its evolution, Holy Week has ceased to be a spectacle and has become an interior experience, less visible but equally profound. And in this transformation, Donostia demonstrates once again its capacity to honor tradition without stopping looking to the future.

Author: Descubre Donostia