At first light, when the tide leaves a smooth carpet of compact sand, Zarauz is already awake. A handful of surfers paddle out calmly, walkers open the day along the seafront, and, in the distance, the “mouse” of Getaria takes shape. That’s how life begins in this Gipuzkoan town, 20 kilometres from San Sebastián: eyes on the sea, feet firmly planted in tradition. First‑timers immediately understand the nickname “queen of the beaches”: an immense stretch of sand, a promenade that never sleeps, and the feeling that here the ocean keeps time.
What to see in Zarauz, slowly and on foot
The beach of Zarauz is the gateway and the town’s great emblem. 2.5 kilometres of fine sand—the longest beach in the Basque Country—with space for families, surf schools and long sunset strolls. At low tide, everything widens and softens; at high tide, waves nip close to the promenade and the show plays out in the front row. Alongside it, the seafront doubles as viewpoint, children’s playground, cycle lane and open‑air sculpture walk. Sun‑facing benches, terraces, kiosks and a summer bustle that barely switches off. Head west and a flat coastal path leads to Getaria, with the Cantabrian Sea on your left and vineyards on the slopes; to the east, sand gives way to the protected landscape of Iñurritza.
The old town keeps its maritime pulse and several notable buildings. Torre Luzea (15th century) is one of the finest Gothic tower houses in the region; opposite, Casa Portu—today the Town Hall—speaks of the power of old urban palaces. The parish church of Santa María la Real, Gothic at heart, anchors a complex with a bell‑tower and archaeological remains; the nave’s cool dimness is perfect on hot days. Facing the sea, the Palacio de Narros (16th century) recalls the golden age of aristocratic summering—Isabel II herself stopped here—and its sober, elegant silhouette still dominates the seafront.
Zarauz also looks to the present. The Photomuseum offers a lively tour through the history of photography and cinema—ideal on grey days—while Sanz Enea, now a cultural centre and library, drives the local agenda with exhibitions, book clubs and family activities. To feel daily life, take a lap around the market (Merkatu Plaza), where fish, farmhouse vegetables, cheeses and cider share the stage. Arrive early and the dance of baskets and crates tells the town’s story better than any guidebook.
A little history, told as you stroll
The town grew glued to the sea, between fishing and trade, defended by medieval towers that survive today as symbols. The 19th‑century aristocratic summers brought small palaces and the first sea baths; later, the train and new habits turned Zarauz into a holiday destination. In the 20th century, surfing found an ideal playground here: sandy bottom, friendly peaks and an ever‑lively promenade. Today’s blend—seafaring tradition, Basque culture and beach life—is the result of that evolution.
Nature within easy reach: dunes, cliffs and vineyards
At the eastern end of the beach lies the Iñurritza Protected Biotope, a mosaic of dunes, marshes and cliffs crossed by wooden boardwalks. It’s the best‑preserved dune field on the Basque coast—around 177,200 m²—and a small paradise for watching plants and birds without stepping off the walkways. On light‑breeze days, the rustle of dune grasses becomes a soundtrack that invites you to slow down.
Above the sea rises Talaimendi, with a gentle path to the remains of the Mollarri ore loader (1906), industrial heritage perched on a natural balcony with views to Getaria. A short excursion that delivers long views: cliffs, spindrift and red roofs tracing the outline of the “mouse”. To stretch your legs within the municipality, the Green‑Blue Ring links, over a little more than 11 kilometres, heritage sites, woodland and wetlands—ideal for discovering Zarauz’s lesser‑known side. And a quarter‑hour’s drive away, Pagoeta Natural Park (Aia) adds oak forests, old forges and viewpoints for a half‑day escape drenched in green.
Surf and beach: from family dips to Cantabrian waves
Zarauz is a classic Cantabrian surf spot: sandy bottom, well‑defined peaks and a surf scene year‑round. Autumn and spring often bring the most consistent sets; summer is ideal for learning, thanks to established surf schools all along the promenade. Simple advice: if you’re starting out, book a lesson and avoid spring tides; a coach will pick the best bank and tide window for you. On big days, watching locals carve long walls is a show in itself. The rest of the time, the beach is an endless park for running, cycling, beach‑paddle, yoga on the sand—or simply lying back to gaze at the horizon with an ice cream in hand.
Txakoli and product‑driven cuisine: coastal flavour
The town belongs to the Getariako Txakolina appellation, a fresh, citrus‑tinged white with a faint saline note that pairs beautifully with grilled fish and pintxos. In Zarauz you can visit wineries like Talai Berri, set on sunny slopes with sea views; next door in Getaria, houses such as Gaintza or Ameztoi round out the route. The experience—among trellised vines and Atlantic breeze—is as educational as it is photogenic.
At the table, local produce leads: seafront grills, pintxo bars in the centre, and kitchens that make the most of the seasons. The Karlos Arguiñano Restaurant‑Hotel, a long‑time classic right on the beach, is a safe bet for a meal with a view. For simple happiness, try bonito with peppers, hake in green sauce or a charcoal‑grilled rib‑eye—dishes that say more about how people eat here than any speech. For dessert, cuajada, pantxineta or a modern take on French toast that winks at tradition.
A singular sporting heritage: golf in the dunes
Beside the beach stretches a historic 9‑hole links founded in 1916, laid over the dunes. A rarity on the peninsula: a course right on the Cantabrian, where wind calls the shots and every round is different. Even if you don’t play, watching tide and breeze reshape the course helps explain Zarauz’s relationship with its shoreline.
Walks and rides: three easy ideas
- Zarauz–Getaria coastal walk: almost flat, with railings—perfect for families and sunsets. Out‑and‑back makes a comfortable appetite‑building stroll.
- Up to Talaimendi and Mollarri: a short trail with a panoramic reward. Best in the morning or at golden hour, when light sculpts the cliffs.
- Towards Orio via the bidegorri (cycle path): a signed bike route that alternates sea and green. Ideal for a leisurely morning.
Festivals and big dates: a calendar that spills into the streets
Zarauz knows how to celebrate. The year starts strong with the Zarauzko Triatloia (held since 1987, in mid‑June), which turns the promenade into a natural grandstand and the beach into a transition zone. On 25 and 26 June the town explodes for San Pelaio: opening rocket, drum parades, Oilasko Biltzea, giants and a buzz that overflows the squares.
August brings Aste Nagusia—Big Week—with concerts, fireworks and street parties; and, above all, the traineras rowing regattas: the Ikurriña de Zarauz gathers the North’s best crews on the third weekend of August. In September, the Euskal Jaiak (1–9 September, main day on the 9th) fill the historic centre with dances, trikitixa players, bertsolaris and village fêtes. In summer, the seafront often hosts free concerts that stretch the day late into the night and set unexpected soundtracks to the sunsets.
Art and culture all year long
Beyond the headline dates, Zarauz sustains a lively cultural calendar: herri kirolak (rural sports) exhibitions, film cycles, shows at Sanz Enea, children’s workshops and literary meet‑ups. Groups of friends take over the squares, choirs pop up during local fêtes, and gastronomic societies—though private—shape the character of a town where shared meals are almost a creed.
Getting there and getting around
By train, Euskotren’s E1 line links Zarauz with Donostia–San Sebastián and Bilbao (with a change depending on the route). By bus, Lurraldebus connects the town via the N‑634 and AP‑8. By car, access is easy on the AP‑8 (Zarauz exit) or the scenic N‑634. If you’re driving in summer, an early start helps with parking.
Once here, the best way is to walk or cycle: the beach and centre are compact, and the coastal path encourages you to get on a bike. The terrain is gentle and distances short, so it’s easy to string together shopping, a swim and pintxos without checking the time.
Climate and the best time to go
A mild oceanic climate rules: temperate summers (highs around 24–25 °C) and cool winters (highs near 12 °C). For beach time, June to September is usually the sweet spot. For punchier surf—and fewer people—September to November can be memorable; spring performs well too. October often brings golden days, with warmish water and light that flatters every photo.
Where to stay
Choices range from seafront hotels and central guesthouses to holiday apartments and hillside campsites with postcard views. On key dates—summer, Aste Nagusia, rowing regattas—book ahead. If you’re after peace and quiet, try early June or late September: the vibe stays lively and there’s more room on the sand.
A 48‑hour plan (with reasons to come back)
Day 1. Morning of promenade and swims on the big beach. Coffee with sea views, then the Palacio de Narros (exterior) and the Photomuseum. Afternoon in the old town: Torre Luzea, Casa Portu and Santa María la Real. Pintxos on Musika Plaza and a sunset stroll to the start of the path to Getaria.
Day 2. Early visit to the Iñurritza Biotope along its boardwalks. Easy climb to Talaimendi–Mollarri for the views. Back down, a txakoli tasting at a winery or a round of golf on the links. Rainy‑day Plan B: more museums, the market and a long sobremesa. Perfect finale: watch the sun drop behind Getaria’s “mouse”.
With kids and on rainy days
With little ones, the low‑tide beach is a natural playground: sandcastles, rockpools and long rambles. Surf schools run level‑based courses, and the promenade—with its parks—keeps everyone moving. If the weather turns, the Photomuseum, Sanz Enea library and a gentle pintxo crawl (croquettes, tortilla, non‑spicy gildas) will rescue any afternoon.
Practical tips
- Iñurritza is fragile: stick to the boardwalks and don’t step on the dunes.
- At Mollarri, the path runs near cliffs: take care with children.
- In summer and on festival dates, it pays to book accommodation and restaurants.
- If you’re new to surfing, take a lesson and avoid spring tides; ask the school for the day’s best tide window.
- For local food shopping, hit the market in the morning; in the afternoon, the promenade terraces rule the scene.
Nearby excursions
- Getaria, along the coastal path, to end the day with turbot off the grill.
- Orio, another seafaring town with a proud rowing tradition and a photogenic estuary.
- Pagoeta Natural Park (Aia), a mix of forest and historic ironworks.
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